Know The Mamod Models (become an expert)

We are indebted to Tony Gorton for this invaluable knowledge base.  He can be found at:

http://www.freewebs.com/mamodsteam/index.htm

SE1: Straight out stationary Steam engine, that runs a flywheel. Has superheating, which is when the steam pipe comes out of the boiler, then runs under it through the flame, then to cylinder. This supposedly creates dryer steam.

SE1a: Same as SE1 but no superheating, newer model.

SE2: Similar to SE1, has superheating, but also a boiler mounted whistle and exhaust throttle.

SE2a: Similar to SE2 but no superheating, no throttle, however has a forward/reverse lever.

SE3: Larger than SE2, twin cylinders, whistle and a throttle control at the point where the steam pipe comes out of boiler.

SE3 Griffin and George: Same as SE3, but no throttle control, silver soldered, and was made for schools in England to show the basics of how a steam engine works.

MM1: Very small engine, boiler mounted flywheel, no exhaust to chimmney

MM2: Same as MM1 only bigger.

TE1: A Traction Engine with exhaust throttle control.

TE1a: Same as TE1 but has forward/reverse lever and not throttle control.

SR1: Steam Roller.

SR1a: Steam Roller with forward/reverse lever.

Of course this is the basics. There are others like Steam wagons, SP types (newer stationary models) and so on.

If you want any more info please contact me.

When collecting Mamods price can vary with age/rarity.

In a nutshell older = more expensive. As they don't have dates on them, or "standoutish" features, telling the dates is impossible with no knowledge.

A brief overall view of Mamod dates:

Flat bases: Before 1954.

Raised bases: After 1954.

Nut and bolt construction: Up till 1965.

Brass flywheels: Up to 1953 (from around 1948).

Mazak flywheels: 1953 onward.

Barrel pistons up to around 1958.

Wick burners up to around: 1958

Vapourising meths burners: 1958-1976

Solid fuel burners (in the UK) 1976 on

These engines are usually hassle free. Bit of oil on all moving parts including piston and faceplate and they should last for a long time.

Other points to remember:

* On Methylated Spirit burners use Methylated spirit only. Not petrol, kerosene or other stuff.

* Fill boiler with cleanest water available. Pre boiled tap water is best, and can be added to the boiler whilst the water is hot for a longer run.

* Ensure spring in safety valve is working.

* Normal petrol car engine oil is fine for oiling, "steam engine oil" from eBay is a gimmick.

* Tighten safety valves, plugs, finger tight only. Don't use pliers.

* Drain engine and oil parts after use.

That's about it. As these engines use flammable fuel, and boiling water, hot steam, common sense prevails.

Cleaning.

When you first buy an engine clean the boiler with a fine steel wool. Give the boiler a wipe down with Brasso, leaving it on the surface, then polish with a Dremel and polishing tip. Finally a wipe down with a clean cloth. This always works fine, however you can use Brasso wadding too.

The best place to source Mamods is eBay. Other places could be garage sales, antique shops or just ask people you know. Even in Australia kids did have them as toys in the early 70's, and they were quite common from what I've been told. It's just a matter of finding them.

Tips for buying engines from ebay:

* Firstly stick with your own security limits on international eBay use. For example, simply do not use anything other than Paypal for buying from overseas. Many sellers do not accept international orders or money orders or bank cheques anyway.

* Ask if everything moves freely on engine. Do the safety valves and water level plugs unscrew and tighten up? 

* Check pics for missing or damaged parts.

* Many engines on eBay, are incorrectly listed by dates, models, and even saying they are original when they clearly aren't.

* Be cautious of anyone giving a "story" as to why they haven't tested the engine:

For example:

"Haven't fired engine as they take too long to clean up".

"Engine untested as I have no meths".

"Engine untested as I don't have time"

In all above cases, a small clean up, a few pennies on meths, or 10 mins testing is surely worth a few more pounds to the seller. So excuses from the seller could mean "it doesn't work, leaks badly" and so on.

Obviously some can't fire the engine. People have come across them in their attic, found them during a cleanup, or perhaps a deceased estate being sold by family. Pictures, knowing your engines, and asking questions is the best safety against buying a dud engine. Even then it's not fail safe, nor is buying a engine that states it runs. So buy any engine WITH CAUTION.