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Full mamod spares and parts page
MAMOD SPARES AND PARTS
If you own a Mamod engine, working or otherwise, then
you are going to need spare
parts of some kind eventually. There is nothing wrong
with any Mamod engine, they are built to last for many decades,
but they do need the occasional part. Some wear a bit
and some get lost, oh, and some get busted. It's a long way from
the loft hatch to the landing floor! But don't worry,
because we will have the part you need. And we can tell you what
to do as well. I'm going to show you some of the spares that are
most in demand with some photos of a few jobs being done (coming soon).
That should give you confidence that you don't need to be
particularly clever or skilful. You just need to have a go.
The most common thing is for the Safety
Valve to show its age. The spring may be seized up or
the washers rotted owing to age. Most problems are owing to
age. So, if your valve is looking a bit ancient you could get
a new one. Here is a Mamod Traction Engine with its Safety
Valve in place.
What you can do is clean up an old one with Brasso metal
polish cleaner, put WD40 on the spring and get some new
washers. Depends how you want yours to look - and
work. It is the most important part on any
engine. Look after it. We sell loads of Water
Level Plugs. These screw in the end of the boiler
and when removed during water filling will let you know when
enough water has been poured into the boiler. They do not
necessarily need to be replaced if there is a leak from that
place, as just a change of washer may do the trick. They come in
different shapes. Some with one arm, but most we sell have a
double arm. If you have quite an old Mamod engine you may prefer a
more authentic one for the year of your model and so prefer one
like this from our range. The choice is yours.
As an engine progresses through its life it can get a bit
sloppy. A bit like running in an engine in the old days. A Mamod
engine can after 30 - 40 years get a bit too run-in. So then the
piston slops around
in the cylinder during a steam up and lets too much steam out from
the open end of the cylinder. You will know this by a load of
steam jetting around the cylinder, slow running, and
possibly the piston grinding in the bore a bit. All signs
that it has seen action.
Not a problem. Pistons of the necessary size are available here.
Just make sure you measure the piston to save you having to return
a wrong one and have to pay us more postage to get the right one
to you. The MM1 Mamod Minor has a small
cylinder/ piston assembly and here, you will need to
buy the complete unit. For the Mamod SE engines (SE1 through
to SE3) you can either get a standard type or one of our fancy "variable
length" pistons. Now
that is cool.
There is one big problem we meet quite often. The whistle
does not whistle. You then have two chances. Chance one is to soak
the whole Mamod whistle assembly in vinegar overnight. This may
loosen the limescale and it will whistle again. If you do that,
don't both firing up your engine to find out if it does
work. Just put it to your lips and blow hard. It will
screech if it is going to. Chance two is to remove the
whistle from your lips and throw it into the rubbish bin. It
will never work again - but you knew that. Then buy a new
one. Simple really.
Another really useful "get you out of jail" tip is this one.
Imagine this. You have been reparing/ renovating an old
Mamod engine, say a Mamod SE1A for argument. It looks great, all
nice and shiny. But you remember that before you took it
apart there was a big steam loss from around the cylinder/ back
plate. You didn't really know why and now you have raised a
new head of steam, there it goes again - loads of steam, and
detailed fiddling seems to indicate the cylinder is not tight
enough and a bit too sloppy on the backplate. In fact it looks
like gravity is too strong there.
Here is what you do. Remove the retaining screw/bolt from the back
of the back plate and add one of the thin washers that should be
on the hexagonal head end to the open end. Screw back onto
the cylinder through the back plate and the chances are you will
have improved the running so much that you can at least sleep
again. The problem is all to do with wear and sometimes owing to
swapping over to another cylinder from another old engine. Please
note the picture below does not show the washers.
Here is a little thing that foxes many folk. Removing and
replacing a Mamod Road Wheel Hub Cap. Do not use a screw driver to
lever it off by applying pressure between the wheel centre and the
hub cap unless you intend to respray the wheel or you are trying
to make it look knackered. If you do not want to damage the wheel
at all, you should grip the outside body of the Hub Cap and widdle
and widdle and widdle (get it?) until it comes off - it will
eventually. It will be ruined by then so make sure you have
got a repacement.
Here is how to put on a new Hub Cap. Support the other end of the
axle (whether it has a Hub Cap or not) on a hard surface like a
vice or a hard book cover you don't mind damaging a bit.
Hold the axle perfectly upright and steady, press the Hub Cap onto
the axle (it might keep falling off) and then with a hard object
wack it down. Bob's your uncle!
So, whether you have just found a Mamod in your garage, saw
one at a garage sale, or perhaps found the one you had as a kid,
you may wish to identify it.
These are the very basics differences with Mamods, and does
not cover the Locos, SP range, Steam Wagons, or others.
Further down the page you will see some pictures which help
a little more in the identification.
SE1: Straight out stationary steam
engine, that runs a flywheel. Has superheating, which is when
the steam pipe comes out of the boiler, then runs under it
through the flame, then to cylinder. This supposedly creates
dryer steam.
SE1a: Same as SE1 but no superheating,
newer model.
SE2: Similar to SE1, has superheating, but
also a boiler mounted whistle and exhaust throttle.
SE2a: Similar to SE2 but no superheating,
no throttle, however has a forward/reverse lever.
SE3: Larger than SE2, twin cylinders,
whistle and a throttle control at the point where the steam pipe
comes out of boiler.
SE3 Griffin and George: Same as SE3, but no
throttle control, silver soldered, and was made for schools in
England to show the basics of how a steam engine works.
MM1: Very small engine, boiler mounted
flywheel, no exhaust to chimmney
MM2: Same as MM1 only bigger.
TE1: A Traction engine with exhaust
throttle control.
TE1a: Same as TE1 but has forward/reverse
lever and not throttle control.
SR1: Steam Roller.
SR1a: Steam Roller with forward/reverse
lever.
When collecting Mamods price can vary with age/rarity.
In a nutshell older = more expensive. As they don't have
dates on them, or "standoutish" features, telling the dates is
impossible with no knowledge.
Here is a very brief overall view of Mamod dates:
Flat bases: Before 1954.
Raised bases: After 1954.
Nut and bolt construction: Up till 1965.
Brass flywheels: Up to 1953 (from around 1948).
Mazak flywheels: 1953 onward.
Barrel pistons up to around 1958.
Wick burners up to around: 1958
Vapourising meths burners: 1958-1976
Solid fuel burners (in the UK) 1976 on
Above picture shows nut and bolt construction.
Above picture shows rivet construction holding
piston/flywheel bracket to base
An earlier type flat ended cylinder
A newer type domed end cylinder
An exhaust throttle ona TE1. First TE1s had
nut and bolt construction too. Anything with a reverse
lever is a TE1a.
These engines are usually hassle free. Bit of oil on all
moving parts including piston and faceplate and they should last
for a long time.
Other points to remember:
On Methylated Spirit burners use Methylated spirit only. Not
petrol, kerosene or other stuff.
Fill boiler with cleanest water available. Pre boiled tap
water is best, and can be added to the boiler whilst the water
is hot for a longer run.
Ensure spring in safety valve is working.
Tighten safety valves, plugs, finger tight only. Don't use
pliers.
Drain engine and oil parts after use.
That's about it. As these engines use flammable fuel, and
boiling water, hot steam, common sense prevails.
All "just bought from eBay" engines may need their boiler
cleaned with a fine steel wool. Give the boiler a wipe down with
brasso, leaving it on the surface, then polish with a Dremel
craft drill and polishing tip. Finally a wipe down with a clean
cloth. This has always seems to work and of course in the UK
Brasso wadding is excellent to use.
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